Showing posts with label Venice. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Venice. Show all posts

Monday, March 5, 2012

Venice, Italy (Accommodation & Dining)

We spent four days and three nights in Venice during September of 2011.

Accommodation:
While planning our trip to Venice, I knew that I wanted us to stay somewhere centrally located near St. Mark's Square, however, this proved to be difficult as the lodging prices in Venice were outrageous compared to the other cities we visited in Italy. After reviewing dozens of options, I did something I normally don't do and opted to stay at a place that, at the time, had just a few ratings on Trip Advisor. I knew it was a risky decision but decided to select Gio and Gio Bed and Breakfast as our accommodation as they only charged 135 Euro per night, included breakfast, and were literally situated directly next to a canal. Fortunately, my risk paid off. Although the bed and breakfast was initially slightly confusing to find, once there, we figured out it was located only a ten minute walk from St. Mark's Square. Our room and the entire apartment were tastefully decorated and had a very homey and comfortable feeling. The hosts were very friendly and helpful. The only downfall was that the walls were paper thin so the slightest sound could be heard anywhere within the apartment. Other than that it was a great choice that I highly recommend!
Our room at Gio and Gio Bed and Breakfast.
Our room at Gio and Gio Bed and Breakfast.
Our bathroom at Gio and Gio Bed and Breakfast.
Our bathroom at Gio and Gio Bed and Breakfast.
Living room at Gio and Gio Bed and Breakfast.
Living room at Gio and Gio Bed and Breakfast.
Living room at Gio and Gio Bed and Breakfast.
View of the canal from the living room window of Gio and Gio Bed and Breakfast.
View of the canal from the living room window of Gio and Gio Bed and Breakfast.
View of the canal from the living room window of Gio and Gio Bed and Breakfast.

Dining:
Let me preface by stating that experiencing quality dining in Venice requires research and planning. Do not expect to be able to find a decent or moderately-priced meal anywhere near St. Mark's Square. The restaurants tend to be touristy and very expensive. Unfortunately, I failed to do much pre-planning or research on restaurants in Venice so we didn't have the best of success. Below are the places we ended up eating at. I also have a brief write-up of a few places visited during our tour with Alessandro Schezzini in my Venice (Sightseeing) entry as well as B Restaurant alla Vecchia Pescheria (Murano) in my Islands of theVenetian Lagoon entry.

Snack Bar San Vidal:
This small restaurant with plenty of outdoor seating is located at the southern end of Campo Santo Stefano. The restaurant had cheap pizzas (around 6 Euro I believe) so we decided to stop in for a late dinner one evening. The pizzas were fine, nothing spectacular, but filled our bellies just fine.
Pizza from Snack Bar San Vidal.
Cicchetti Bars:
Instead of having a sit-down dinner our last evening in Venice, Shyawn suggested that we do some bar hopping through some of Venice's bacari. Although there are numerous bacari options all over Venice, we focused on the area to the west of the Rialto Bridge, near the Rialto Fish Market. Cicchetti bars serve small appetizer-sized snacks on trays that are easily viewed by the customers. They usually also serve a variety of house wine, usually 1 to 2 Euro a glass. The small snacks are very cheap, so you can try a variety and still not break the bank. We went to three cicchetti bars that evening, including Osteria Al Pesador and Osteria Bancogiro which are situated directly next to one another. All of the snacks we tried were very delicious.
Delicious cicchetti at Osteria Al Pesador.
Exterior of Osteria Al Pesador.
Cicchitti at Osteria Bancogiro.

Ristorante Da Raffaele:
This restaurant, located directly across from our bed and breakfast Gio and Gio, was situated right next to the canal. Luckily, since we arrived towards the latter part of lunch the waiter was able to sit us at one of the tables that overlooked the canal. Unfortunately, the canal-side location resulted in high menu prices and lackluster food. Shyawn ordered spaghetti with a white sauce while I chose gnocchi with a red sauce and mozzarella. The food was disappointing, but eating directly next to a canal in Venice with gondolas passing by was a very unique and fun experience. I would only recommend eating here if you are able to secure a canal-side table. Otherwise, forget it!

During lunch we saw a local Venetian taking his boat out of storage in the lower level of his home, which was fascinating to watch.
Shyawn's pasta dish from Ristorante Da Raffaele.
My gnocchi dish from Ristorante Da Raffaele.
Picture postcard setting of the canal from Ristorante Da Raffaele
At Ristorante Da Raffaele.
Shyawn at Ristorante Da Raffaele
These doors suddenly opened and we saw that it was the "garage" for a boat.
View of a boat backing into the canal from Ristorante Da Raffaele
The boat had to wait for passing gondolas before he finished backing out.
And he's out!
Trattoria Da Silvio:
This small restaurant is located within the Dorsoduro neighborhood of Venice. We happened upon it as we were walking to Ca Rezzonico. We probably should have tried one of the seafood dishes considering we were in Venice, but we both ended up ordering the penne con pesto as it was our last full day in Italy and we figured that an opportunity to eat Italian pesto wouldn't present itself again before we left. The pasta was decent and the prices were some of the most reasonable we paid while in Venice. Additionally, we both loved the restaurant's relaxing and peaceful garden setting. The crowds and tourists of Venice seemed far away from our little table.
Trattoria Da Silvio
Penne con Pesto from Trattoria Da Silvio.

Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Islands of the Venetian Lagoon (Burano, Murano, & San Giorgio Maggiore)


Beautiful Burano.
We were fortunate enough to have four days to spend in Venice during our trip to Italy in September of 2011. I had heard numerous wonderful things about the surrounding islands of Venice, including Burano and Murano. Since we had so much extra time in the city, we chose to spend one of the days touring the islands. The best way to reach the islands is by vaporetto. Even if you are only in Venice for a few days, I would highly recommend purchasing a vaporetto pass versus using single tickets. It will save you a lot of money!

If you plan your day carefully using the vaporetto schedules, you can visit the islands of Cimitero, Murano, Burano, and Torcello. We had initially planned on visiting all four but on our way to Cimitero we realized that we had left our Museum Pass at the hotel. This pass enabled us to visit both Burano's Lace Museum and Murano's Glass Museum for free. We got off on a random island in the lagoon so that we could turn around and get back to Venice. Unfortunately, not fully understanding the vaporetto schedules we had no idea that the vaporetto we chose took us all the way around Venice, and we didn't reach St. Mark's Square for over an hour. Needless to say, in hindsight, that was a very stupid waste of our time as I would have much rather paid to visit the museums out of our pocket as we ended up having to cut Cimitero and Torcello out of our day. We were both surprised with the length of time it takes to go from island to island; they are not as close as you think they might be!

We also visited San Giorgio Maggiore on a separate day, as it is located directly across the lagoon from St. Mark's Square, via a quick five minute vaporetto ride.

Burano:
This incredibly beautiful island is famous for its production of lace and its picture perfect pastel buildings. Most of our visit happened to coincide with the golden hour (last hour of sunlight) so the buildings shined vibrantly in most of my photos. Burano is great place to stroll through and explore its many lace shops and quiet canals, but it does have one interesting sight: its Lace Museum, which is described further below.
Burano
Burano
Shyawn walking through Burano.
Burano
Burano
Lacework for sale in Burano.
Burano
Burano
Burano
Burano
Burano
Burano
Burano
Burano is filled with so many vibrantly-painted buildings, like this one.
This was one of the restaurants where Anthony Bourdain ate the famous goh risotto on his Venice show. Unfortunately it was closed when we visited.
Burano
Burano
Burano
Burano
Burano
Burano
We happened upon this bride and groom as we wandered through Burano.
Burano
Burano
Burano
Burano
A friendly cat on Burano.
Burano
Burano
The bride and groom continuing their photo shoot on Burano.
Burano
Burano
Burano
Burano
 My favorite place in Burano.
Our attempt at a self-portrait in Burano.
Cruising through Burano.
Burano
It's a cat's life in Burano.
Cat in Burano.
A cat relaxing on a boat in Burano.
Burano
Burano
Burano
Burano
Burano
Lace for sale in Burano.
Burano
Burano
Burano
Burano
Burano
Burano
Burano
Burano
Burano
Burano
Burano
Burano

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