Lovely Lyon

Day 21 continued (Thursday, September 17, 2009)


After leaving Seguret, I began the long drive north to Lyon. This magnificent city is sadly often overlooked on the tourist trail, with Paris and Nice being much more popular cities to visit. This is truly a shame considering that Lyon has much to offer to visitors, including lots of museums, gorgeous churches, diverse neighborhoods, pedestrian-friendly squares, and more restaurants to choose from than anywhere else I've seen in the world. Prior to my visit, even I was unaware that Lyon had multiple areas within its city designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, including Fourvière, Vieux Lyon, Croix-Rousse and a large part of Presqu'île. Unfortunately, with my tight sightseeing schedule, I had only been able to allow less than a full day in the city. In hindsight, I could have easily spent two or even three days touring lovely Lyon.

Beautiful Lyon.

Upon arrival in Lyon, with aid from my navigation system, I was able to easily find Hôtel Best Western Lyon Saint-Antoine and the nearby parking garage. After checking in, I walked up to the room in order to drop off my bags. After opening the doors to my room, I became quite confused. The room was definitely the strangest set-up I had ever seen. My room must have been located smack-dab in the middle of the building as I had no exterior windows. Instead, I had a tiny window with a view of the lovely fire escape, with absolutely no natural light coming in. The peculiarities continued with the bathroom set-up; I immediately saw the bathroom, although it only had a shower and sink. After much confusion, I finally opened what I thought was a closet door to see that there was a completely separate room for the toilet. I thought it was quite strange to have the bathroom fixtures located in different rooms on opposite sides of the hotel room, but because the room had obviously undergone recent renovations and was actually quite nice, I excused the odd set-up.

Hotel room in Lyon.

Tiny hotel bathroom in Lyon.

From the hotel, I walked into the streets of Lyon in order to look at the many different recommended restaurants that were listed in the guidebooks. Lyon is well-known around France as one of the gastronomic capitals of the country. This is in large part due to its many restaurants, or as they are called in Lyon, bouchons, which are traditionally small bistros that tend to specialize in just a few menu items for reasonable prices. Throughout the city, there are multiple blocks of streets which are famous for being lined completely with dozens of restaurants. One of these such streets is called Rue Merciere, which is located on Presqu'île, and just so happened to be very close to the location of my hotel. Since it was only in the early afternoon, most of the restaurants and bouchons were closed, but they all had menus posted outside their doors. After much debate, I decided that I would later eat dinner at a place called Le Bouchon aux Vins.

From Rue Merciere, I walked through Lyon for a bit, admiring the many beautiful buildings that line its streets.

Lyon

Lyon

Lyon

Lyon

Lyon

Lyon

Lyon

Afterward, I began to look for a bakery in order to buy a quick bite to eat as my hypoglycemia had kicked-in suddenly. Unfortunately, although restaurants and bouchons were numerous, boulangeries were not, as I had a very difficult time finding any. Eventually, I did find one though it was a tad expensive, so I just purchased one item.

Next, I walked across Pont Bonaparte in order to complete Rick Steves walking tour of Fourvière and Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon). The city is lined with multiple bridges, and visitors should make a point to walk across at least a few of them, as they all provide amazing and panoramic views of Lyon.

View of Lyon across the river.

Lyon

Reflections in Lyon.

Lyon

Lyon

After crossing the bridge, I took a funicular ride up to Fourvière Hill. Once off the funicular, I was greeted with an amazing view of the extremely ornate exterior of Notre-Dame de Fourvière. This gorgeous church appeared to be in pristine condition, with the whitest exterior I had ever seen that looked almost unreal against the bright blue sky. Back in 1870, the bishop of Lyon vowed that he would have a glorious church constructed as a tribute to the Virgin Mary if the Prussians spared the city. Coincidentally, a similar deal was also made in Paris, in which Sacré-Cœur was created. Fortunately the deal was made, and Notre-Dame de Fourvière was built between 1872 and 1896, with its design being based off of both Romanesque and Byzantine architecture.

Notre-Dame de Fourviere

Notre-Dame de Fourviere

Notre-Dame de Fourviere

Notre-Dame de Fourviere

Notre-Dame de Fourviere

Notre-Dame de Fourviere

Notre-Dame de Fourviere

Notre-Dame de Fourviere

Notre-Dame de Fourviere

Notre-Dame de Fourviere

Notre-Dame de Fourviere

Notre-Dame de Fourviere

Notre-Dame de Fourviere

After appreciating the many intricate details of the exterior, I headed inside the church. Surprisingly, the interior was just as impressive as the exterior, with colorful mosaics covering nearly every square inch of the ceiling, walls, and flooring. After touring the main chapel, I headed downstairs where I assumed I would see the crypt. Instead, I found myself in yet another chapel, this one done on a much smaller and less detailed scale, though just as beautiful in its own right.

Notre-Dame de Fourviere

Interior of Notre-Dame de Fourviere.

Interior of Notre-Dame de Fourviere.

Interior of Notre-Dame de Fourviere.

Interior of Notre-Dame de Fourviere.

Interior of Notre-Dame de Fourviere.

Interior of Notre-Dame de Fourviere.

Interior of Notre-Dame de Fourviere.

Interior of Notre-Dame de Fourviere.

From the church, I took a short walk to the Roman Theaters and Gallo-Roman Museum. My entrance to the museum was free, since my visit happened to occur on Thursday, when anyone can enter for free. Unfortunately, I arrived only 30 minutes prior to closing, so I had a very short period of time to tour the museum, which is located on the former Gallo-Roman civilization of Lyon. The museum displays permanent collections of Roman, Celtic and pre-Roman items such as jewelry, vases, statues, and many other common everyday items. During my quick visit at the museum, I most enjoyed looking at the beautiful Roman mosaic floors, which I always find to be very intriguing.

Next, I quickly walked over to the ruins of the Roman Theaters. The larger theater could originally seat up to 10,000 people, but now sits about 3,000. The smaller theater (known as odeon) was once used to conduct speeches and songs in. In all honestly, I wasn't overly impressed with the ruins. However, I'm sure that having just toured the very famous Roman theater in Orange had raised my expectations quite high.

Roman theater in Lyon.

Roman theater in Lyon.

Ancient Roman road in Lyon.

Afterward, I walked to another funicular, which I rode down into the Vieux Lyon neighborhood. I walked through this charming area for about one hour, first stopping in at the Gothic St. Jean Cathedral which stands proudly in its own square. Next to the church were the ruins of an 11th century church which was destroyed during the French Revolution.

St. Jean Cathedral of Lyon.

St. Jean Cathedral of Lyon.

Interior of St. Jean Cathedral.

St. Jean Cathedral of Lyon.

Ruins of an 11th century church in Lyon.

Next, I walked along Rue St. Jean, which has a very high concentration of well-preserved Renaissance buildings. During the 16th to 19th centuries, Lyon grew wealthy from its silk industry, which at its most successful time, had 30,000 looms. These lucrative looms financed the construction of the Renaissance buildings. Within the grounds of these Renaissance buildings, one will find the serpentine passageways (traboules) which connected Vieux Lyon's three main streets through quiet courtyards. I walked through one of these traboules, which felt a little strange, almost as though I was walking into someone's private property.

Renaissance buildings near Rue St. Jean.

Looking up at Renaissance buildings near Rue St. Jean.

After my walking tour of Vieux Lyon, I went back to the hotel and relaxed for about an hour.

Finally, I headed out to dinner around 19:00. Since I had already decided earlier in the day where I was going to be eating, I proceeded straight to Le Bouchon aux Vins on Rue Merciere. Thankfully, since it was still fairly early out, I was seated immediately inside the restaurant. There were several great-sounding options on the menu, but I decided to go with the steak with poivre sauce with potato au gratin. My steak was quite good, but the potatoes were even better! For dessert, I ordered the crème caramel with puff pastry, which was tasty, but nothing exceptionally memorable. As I sat eating dinner, I began to regret not spending more time in the city, especially since there were so many different reasonably-priced restaurant options to choose from.

Steak dish.

Dessert

After leaving, I walked through the now crowded and lively Rue Merciere, which was filled with standing-room only restaurants.

Rue Merciere at night.

Before heading back to the hotel, I walked over to the nearby riverfront, where I took a few shots of Vieux Lyon, which was lit-up beautifully at night.

Vieux Lyon lit-up at night.